The Galapagos is Not For Sissies

I am writing this as I sit at “The Rock,” one of nicest bar/restaurants on Santa Cruz, Galapagos. It is noon and I just finished an order of fresh calamari and an Ecuadorian beer.  I have walked more than five miles at Tortuga Bay—white sands and aqua water that one can see through to the bottom. Since 7:00 a.m. I have shared the beach with giant marine iguanas, frigates, and all manner of gulls.

In my time here, I have decided I am not a naturalist; I do not like bugs, amphibians, or reptiles. Furthermore, I am a clean freak and picky about what I eat (this morning breakfast was fried green bananas with white cheese). I also do not like any form of “rustic, primitive living.” Obviously, I discovered quickly that I am not the perfect fit for the Galapagos Islands. So what was I thinking?? About the adventure!! I suppose it is akin to why people climb mountains, run marathons, or even write novels.  It is all about “just doing it,” because it is a challenge or a passion. This may have given me pause about going to other remote areas, but since I want to see the Seven Wonders of the World and the runners-up, I may be in some trouble with my inner being. Time will tell.

I am, though, enjoying the adventure. I enjoy every place I visit, but some more than others. And although these islands will not go down as a favorite, part of the reason may be my fault. The timing, perhaps, is not the best. I am distracted because my mind is on Keeping Faith and its completion. I have not been focused on the trip because I keep checking my email for word from the publisher and thinking about all things related to the book. Traveling is about attitude, and this time, I just haven’t been in the game.

Nonetheless, I flew from Quito, a two hour flight, directly into Baltra Island and then transferred by boat to Santa Cruz, another island, and then took a bus 45 more minutes into Puerto Ayora. I was accompanied by a pre-arranged guide who was supposed to be fluent in English, but apparently no one told him! My Spanish is better than his English, so there is a good chance I am not even where I think I am!! Getting to and around The Galapagos is not for sissies!

Baltra Airport is small, very small and pretty much open to the elements! Baltra was a U.S. military base from 1941-45 when the Ecuadorian government allowed the U.S. military to use the island in order to protect the Panama Canal during World War Two. The only inhabitants were 4,000 U.S. soldiers who never called the island Baltra or its code name Beta. To them it was simply The Rock because it is more than five square miles of rock and very little else.

The soldiers, as the story goes, were bored and isolated, waiting for a war that never came to them so they started the first beer garden in the Galapagos. Now, this modern version of the beer garden is located just a block from where I am staying, “The Hotel Red Booby.” Yes, that is the real name. The Red Booby is a bird here in the islands, as is the Blue Footed Booby, which I have already seen. So, I guess you can say that my boobies are in good company.

The “las tiendas” are closing for the next couple of hours for siesta, and I have a boat to catch, so I must close until later. Hasta manana!

Behind the Curtain

You know from my ABOUT page that traveling is a passion of mine, and in mid-October I am flying to Quito, Ecuador to serve on a school accreditation team.  From there I’m going to the Galapagos Islands so I am really looking forward to that experience and hope that Keeping Faith will be available on Amazon when I return. You’ll be the first to know because it will be advertised right here on the web site.

I love traveling, but I don’t love flying although I have logged more than 40,000 miles on planes this year. One reason I probably don’t enjoy the going and coming is because I fly economy which means I sit in the “no class section” of the plane.  Not only am I packed in like a salted sardine, the food is bad, the drinks are slow arriving and the people next to me are usually not any happier about being in this part of the plane as I am.

I know the little kids aren’t because they are crying, drooling and otherwise fretting.  I want to join them, but I know others would not be as patient with me. But at least now I have acquired so many points that I have an elite status which means I can now sit in rows where I can see people in first class.  They are just different you know–a little more composed, relaxed, smug.

On a recent trip from Peru I had my first experience actually sitting in that section because my friend Gayle, who is a classy gal, pulled some strings or used points or something for me to sit with her.  The only problem was because of the train ride to and from Machu Picchu, coupled with the high altitude in Cusco and the food poisoning in Lima, I was left a bit spent and unable to enjoy the amenities as much as I know I could on another occasion.

Also, although I will be eternally grateful to my friend, I have curmudgeon tendencies so I kept thinking, why couldn’t this pleasure been used on my almost 14 hour trip from Houston to Tokyo or on the long, boring trips to Europe or Egypt. Destinations in South America don’t usually require the long hours or cause the dreaded jet lag that others do. But it was, nonetheless, long enough to get me accustomed to a better mode of transport, and I will have a difficult time returning to my tiny seat BEHIND THE CURTAIN.