Mesilla Valley Vineyards

grapes Cindy Bradford

New Vineyards in Mesilla Valley

In the last blog, A Play Day of Wine Tasting, I began my wine tasting journey along Highway 28, just northwest of El Paso. Yes, El Paso! I know it seems an unlikely place for vineyards, but they are popping up in the Mesilla Valley, and people are flocking to the wineries to enjoy the cozy ambiance, to engage in friendly conversations over a good glass of locally-made wine, and to raise their glasses to a relatively new activity in this part of the southwest.  Although wine was first introduced and planted at Catholic missions along the Camino Real almost four hundred years ago, most of the wineries are relatively new.

After the second winery and visit to the “pecan shop,” we ventured down the road to Rio Grande Vineyards, and the newest tasting room in the area. This was my favorite of the three wineries we visited, partly because it was the busiest and the wine was extremely good (especially for New Mexico wine) and mainly because the owner/wine maker was so sincerely friendly and informative.

He obviously enjoys what he does, and since he comes from a long line of New Mexico farmers and wine makers, he knows the history of the area, and he shares it with unfettered enthusiasm. He appeared excited to pour something of every wine he had, and explain how it was made and how he gave it the special taste that it yielded.

The tasting room is quite nice, with a beautiful view of the Organ Mountains. The tall wooden stools make the experience more enjoyable since one can prop up on them and comfortably sip the wine and enjoy the stories of the recently retired Air Force proprietor who makes you feel welcomed and appreciated for sharing part of your day.

After a considerably lengthy stay, we decided that if we were going to see the little historic village of Old Mesilla as had been recommended by numerous locals, we had better pull our derrieres off the tall stools and be on our merry way. With two bottles of white and one red wine in tow, we did just that.

Only five miles down the road from the winery, the plaza of the colonial capital of the Doña Ana Land Grant, was an easy find. It is a sleepy little tourist spot, but a fun and interesting one as well. The Butterfield Overland Mail stagecoaches stopped here, and many famous and infamous characters, including Billy the Kid, once occupied this village for short periods of time.

The old adobe and brick buildings give a hint to their storied past, but today these old structures are filled with curios and other souvenirs. Jewelry stores, a very old book store, a chocolate shop, three saloons and numerous gift stores crowd the plaza area, which we learned on warmer days also has mariachis performing and vendors selling their goods from temporary booths and/or carts.

After hurriedly perusing the area and deciding we were more hungry than interested in shopping in the blustery cold, we opted for a meal of great New Mexico style Mexican food at La Posta Restaurante y Cantina. Sitting in front of a huge kiva fireplace, we finally warmed up, rehashing the day’s events and saying a hearty “salúd” to a nice, relaxing, fun day in the area where Texas and New Mexico cultures meet, blend and offer a memorable time.

A Play Day of Wine Tasting

Zin Valle Vineyards

Courtesy of Zin Valle Vineyards

Last Saturday was a great day, because I called a truce with work and played. After four straight days of evaluating high schools, it was a much needed break in a daunting schedule. The day was made even more fun because I “played” at something I enjoy so much—wine tasting. Now, that won’t be a surprise to those of you who follow my blogs consistently.

I didn’t realize until this last trip to El Paso, that vineyards and wineries were enjoying such amazing growth and interest, but after several conversations and a quick review of the promotional magazines of the area, I learned that numerous wineries are popping up along Highway 28, just northwest of El Paso between Canutillo, Texas, and Mesilla, New Mexico.

The first winery that my friends and I visited was Zin Valle, along the first mile or so of Highway 28. The husband and wife owners produce a portfolio of wines, some of which are made from grapes grown in the area while others come from grapes or juice brought in from other well-known grape-producing areas. Tasting here was free, and the room is beautifully appointed with a granite tasting bar and a huge window providing a panoramic view of the Franklin Mountains, which on that day had a substantial topping of fresh snow. A barrel room and cozy porch added to the ambiance, although it was certainly too cold and windy to enjoy a tasting outside.

For those of you who think it is warm in El Paso all winter—think again. The high was 42 on Saturday, and the wind showed no mercy, but the sun did shine, giving some reprieve to an otherwise brutal day of bone chilling weather to this South Texas gal.

After tasting three whites and three reds, and buying a bottle of Pinot Noir, made on-site using grapes from California, we were off to La Viña, about five miles down the highway. The Tuscany designed facility was watched over by Princess the cat who also graces the label on one of the wines.

Tastings here were five dollars, but that was worth it, especially since they throw in a souvenir glass. Although all the wines are made from locally-grown grapes and were good, most were sweeter than I like and slightly expensive, so I opted not to purchase any at this stop.

The road to the next winery took us through amazing orchards of pecan trees. I can just imagine how pretty the drive might be in any other season besides winter, because there are thousands of huge trees, some even creating a canopy over the highway for a couple of miles. A quick stop at the Stahmann Family Store gave us an opportunity to taste all things “pecan,” and to buy several pounds of freshly shelled and chopped pecans to take home for baking. (To be continued)

I Never Tire of Santa Fe

Cindy Bradford Shopping in Santa Fe

Cindy Bradford Shopping in Santa Fe

I just returned from three days in Santa Fe, and although I have been many times, I always enjoy seeing the sights, especially during the Christmas holidays. I love the arts and architecture that this capital city provides and when it is decorated for the season, there is no place quite like it. The historic plaza was awash with twinkling lights both nights that I ventured out in the cold temperature to enjoy the farolitos, or luminaries, the term being used interchangeably depending on where one is from in New Mexico.

Farolitos, the Spanish word for “little lanterns,” is used primarily by Santa Feans, but whatever you call them, these small bags filled with sand and candles, add to the magic of this high-desert town, situated at the foothills of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains. They are everywhere; on roof tops, lining walkways, alongside hotel walls. Under a canopy of stars, this combination of natural and artificial radiances creates a festival of sparkling, glittering lights.

Of course, the spicy Northern New Mexican food, best identified by the green chiles that make it famous, is not to be missed. And this time I tried Maria’s, because it has won the best margarita award for the past 14 years. And there is a reason for that—they serve more than 100 tequilas and 160 different margaritas with names like “That Awesome Fella” and “The Silver Sammy,” not to mention “I Was the Boss” for $17.25 and “The Best of Show” for $42.00. Now, that’s a lot of headaches!!! And they use no mix, sugar or additives; only real tequila, real triple-sec and real fresh squeezed lemon juice and ice made from filtered water. I now know where they get the saying, “One Tequila, Two Tequilas, Three Tequilas, Floor,” but I was a good girl because I know José Cuervo is not a friend of mine!

The second night I had to have a steak at The Bull Ring, which has become a tradition for me on every visit to Santa Fe. I realize in a city so rich in food heritage, it is probably crazy to eat plain ole tenderloin, but this place has some of the best ever. Admittedly there are so many great places to eat, it is difficult to choose, so I stop a lot during my shopping for little snacks.

Speaking of shopping, I never miss going to the Palace of the Governors where each day local Indians line up to sell beautiful handmade jewelry and other items. Since they are allotted spots through a lottery system, no two days are the same which always makes it interesting.

It is the confluence of Spanish and Native American cultures that lends to the mysticism of Santa Fe, and I never tire of visiting. Of course, the kiva fireplaces, art galleries, adobe structures and stark beauty of the oldest capital in the United States also keep me returning again and again.

The Middle East in My Future

You know by now that I am a traveling fool, and no matter how far the flight or how long the delay, I continue to return to the airport for more abuse. But recently, I actually turned down a trip—to Saudi Arabia. I said “no” after considerable internal strife.

On one hand, I would like to see Riyadh and Jeddah where the schools I was asked to evaluate are located, but two weeks in the desert just seemed like an eternity. Actually, I did my research and less than 100,000 non-Muslim visitors are allowed in a year so that makes it tempting to be among the few. But further study left me with doubts, and the cons quickly mounted up against the pros. First, as you know, women are not held in great esteem in the kingdom, as it is referred to, so I would probably smart off to the wrong person or wander off into a forbidden area and be flogged on the first day.

Second, the rules require even visiting women to comply to some degree with their rules of proper attire. Although I wouldn’t be required to wear an abaya, a long black gown, I would have to wear long dresses rather than pant suits or dress suits with modest skirts and jackets that I am accustomed to wearing as professional dress. That, along with the fact that no wine is allowed in the kingdom, pushed me over the edge. I can live without the wine (well maybe), but I refuse to wear long dresses and in many cases a scarf for two weeks in 110-plus degree weather.

Third, a taxi driver is not allowed to drive a woman who is not accompanied by a man to any destination. This would greatly inhibit my shopping. All in all, this appeared to be one country just not meant for me. And it is too bad, because I would have loved to see the schools and meet the people, and just think of the blogs I could have written…..

But I did accept an invitation for the first part of March to chair schools in the neighboring United Arab Emirates which will give me the opportunity to see Dubai and other cities along the Persian Gulf. Everything I have read leads me to think this will be a great experience, and although this area is steeped in its Islamic culture and rules, they are somewhat more relaxed, especially for visitors.

These will not be my first Islamic schools, so I am familiar with the constraints, etc. I will first be visiting a private school in Al Ain, known as the Garden City, located on the Gulf of Oman adjacent the Oman border, so there is a good chance we will be allowed into Oman as well since the school leaders and owners always take us on wonderful tours and social events.

On the fifth day I will travel about an hour and a half to another private school in Sharjah, which overlooks the Persian Gulf, about ten miles from Dubai. My plans include several days in Dubai, and maybe a short trip to Abu Dhabi, after the school reviews are complete.

So prepare for photos of more camels and who knows what else in early spring.

I’m Helping Keep Austin Weird

I’m off to Austin to help keep it weird. For those of you not from Texas, the advertising slogan for the city is “Keep Austin Weird,” and it doesn’t need much assistance. It truly is a great place with honky-tonks, barbecue joints and more than 200 music venues, not to mention being a laid-back college town and the state capital.

Did you know that the capitol dome is taller than the U.S. capitol? I don’t think that is supposed to happen, but everything is not bigger in Texas for nothing.

Although I really like Austin, it truly is pretty outlandish, and if you don’t believe it, try visiting a few of the high schools. I chaired the reviews for all eleven, and I can confirm that the dress code is not exactly enforced; and I’m talking about teachers!!! Let’s just say that piercings and tattoos are allowed for young and old alike, and they are proud to sport them.

The funniest attire I saw though was this very large female teacher dressed in a purple velour sweat suit, a purple hat and purple shoes to match. But she didn’t stop there; her fingernails were at least an inch and a half long—so long they curled under, and they were painted purple with a little gold jewel in the middle of the index ones. Where did she find this outfit? How did she grow these nails? They had to be real—fake ones just don’t look this bad.

But the best story of my accreditation visits occurred at a high school in the southern part of town. Judy, the fearless former high school principal, was serving on the team. Just as the last bell rang, she stepped toward the front door. Just as she did, two students were scuffling playfully, and one accidentally fell against her. She didn’t fall, but obviously he made contact.

The other student yelled at him, “You f—— fool, you nearly knocked that ole lady down.” Judy was horrified when she came back to the room where the other members of the team were working. She related the story and reiterated, “Can you believe he called me an ole woman?” Forever the principal who could no longer be shocked, the f—— part went right over her head.

On this trip I’m going for an accreditation meeting and then to present a training for schools going through an upcoming accreditation review. So, I’ll be working some and playing a little. We always manage to go to great restaurants and find time for fun.

When this trip is over, I will have logged over 50,000 miles on Continental just since January. That doesn’t count my travel on Southwest Airlines this year, and there were several trips with them as well. I told you I traveled a lot. I don’t make this stuff up or anything else in my blogs. My life is just one big crazy happening, and I love it that way!